May 2, 2010 Denali Expedition

Flying to Talkeetna

2010-05-22T10:52:00.000-07:00

The group showed up safe at basecamp after a long push down, and last we heard the whole group was in the air headed for Talkeetna. You should be hearing from them soon.

Almost to basecamp

2010-05-21T23:52:00.000-07:00

Rumor has it that Durny and Co. are on the lower glacier heading to basecamp- if all things go well and the weather is good, they could be in Talkeetna tomorrow!

Podcast from High Camp

2010-05-21T09:25:00.000-07:00

Neil called this in last night. The transmission gets a bit cut off at the end, but we should hear more from the team as they make their way down the mountain over the next couple of days.

Good work to everyone, and have an uneventful descent:

R & R at high camp

2010-05-21T09:20:00.000-07:00

Durny called last night to report that the team was kicking back in their tents eating lasagna with meat sauce freeze dried meals and looking forward to a good nights sleep. Everyone on the team is tired after such a big summit push, but they're looking forward to starting down the mountain today. The plan is to move from high camp to basecamp in one effort, a huge amount of work made a little easier by the promise of a planeflight to all the things folks have been missing. Durny will call with updates on their descent, so we'll know more soon.

Summit! Team back safe to high camp

2010-05-20T15:25:00.000-07:00

Durny phoned to confirm what we'd heard from other teams- the entire remaining team made the summit of Denali last night and are all safely back in camp at 17k.

The team set out yesterday morning and summited after around 7 hours, and on the way down the weather picked up and slowed their descent considerably; their entire summit day was 17 hours round trip. The entire team made a huge effort and pulled it off, the first Mountain Trip expedition to reach the summit in 2010!

Good work to everyone and let's wish for good weather- they plan to start heading down to basecamp tomorrow morning.

Rumors of a summit!!!

2010-05-20T06:35:00.001-07:00

We received sporadic word yesterday that the team made a summit push and apparently reached the top of Denali!

Sorry for this "tease," but we'll post more as soon as we here from them this morning...

Podcast from our 17,200' High Camp!

2010-05-19T06:52:00.001-07:00

I'm not entirely certain who this is on this dispatch, so let's have a contest!!! Anyone who can identify this caller will win a limited edition, Drew Ludwig original, Mountain Trip T-shirt! You'll be the talk of the town and the envy of the masses!! Post your best guess in the comments and we'll do our best to find out who the climber's voice belongs to...

Enjoy!

Hunkered Down

2010-05-18T20:32:00.000-07:00

Our guides Durny and Caitlin called in this afternoon to report that the team is in a holding pattern at high camp, settled into their snow walls and waiting out strong winds hitting the higher elevations. Durny, no stranger to reading the weather, estimated that there was 50 mph winds coming off of the upper mountain, which is no place for a climbing team to be.

A rest day after the move to 17k camp is usually a good idea, and the team can use this weather day to regain strength for their summit attempt- being hydrated and well-fed at altitude makes the hard days ahead much more enjoyable. The forecast speaks of a 2-day high pressure building, so let's all cross our fingers and hope the team gets the weather they need to set out for the summit....

Warm and dry in Anchorage

2010-05-18T08:44:00.000-07:00

Guide Jason Buttrick came down to basecamp last night from 14k camp with expedition members Trudi Seiwald and Keith Mambretti. They made an amazing push from 14k to basecamp in just over 6 hours! Most groups take longer than that but this crew was on a deadline- there was a plane waiting at basecamp to take them back to the land of trees and grass and they wanted to make it.

As they pulled up Heartbreak Hill towards basecamp they watched in dismay as the plane took off without them, but Talkeetna Air Taxi is staffed by climbers and friends of Mt. Trip; once the pilot saw the group taking off she actually turned around and landed again just as the team made it into basecamp. Upon arriving in Talkeetna they found our van technician Cheryl waiting with the Mt. Trip van, so Trudi and Keith woke up at 14k camp and went to sleep at the Earth B&B in Anchorage. What a contrast.

Moved into high camp!

2010-05-17T23:11:00.000-07:00

Word from the Mountain Trip mountain radio network is that Durny and crew have pulled safely into high camp. It's common that groups making the move from 14 to 17k don't call in the night they arrive as it is a big day and people are invariably quite knackered. Once climbers have dropped their packs, put on a layer and put down some water, it is time to build camp; sometimes an expedition is lucky enough to move into the walls of a previous expedition and save several hours of work. The snowpack at such a high elevation is usually pretty wind-hammered and can be slow to cut into blocks, but it makes for solid walls and sound minds when they finally climb into their warm down bags.

Message from 14,200 feet

2010-05-17T07:46:00.000-07:00

This came in last night. Enjoy!

Wind wind wind

2010-05-16T22:24:00.000-07:00

Durny called this morning with a progress report and asked for a better forecast. He reported that the team has been enduring some high winds and snowfall- the Park Service patrol at 14 camp has an anemometer (wind-meter) that reported gusts of 64 mph yesterday, but good camp craft kept everyone warm and dry despite the conditions. Winds were still high enough this morning to make moving up into them very unattractive, so the team has decided to wait another day to wait it out. Winds can create the most challenging travel conditions, making it both much colder and often much harder to see, and it can be hard to wait as long as is needed for good conditions. Durny is no stranger to waiting out the weather in the mountains and knows lots of ways to make the time pass easier for the group, so now everyone is hoping for better conditions and watching the winds on the ridge above the fixed lines; when they get their window they'll start the long day of moving to their final camp at 17,200'.

Update from David

2010-05-15T06:44:00.000-07:00

David called last night and left the following update from 14,200 feet. High winds above are keeping the team in camp. The nice thing about getting stick at 14,200' is that it is probably the best altitude on the mountain for acclimatizing. We've found that climbers who spend more time at this camp tend to have a much better go of it up high.

Getting stuck for days at the 17,200' high Camp tends to wear folks down. Even though you are acclimatizing up there as well, your body is deteriorating, and after a period of time, your stay up there becomes a net detriment, rather than a benefit, as it is a few thousand feet lower.

Here's David!

Hanging out in the wind, but their cache is in!

2010-05-14T09:12:00.000-07:00

The crew made a push up the fixed lines the other day, carrying their supplies and fuel up to about 16,200'. They didn't think they would get a chance, as the winds were fairly strong in the morning. As the day progressed, the clouds parted, the wind abated, and they got after it!

This is a fine example of the "Hurry Up And Wait" principle necessary to climb big mountains. Even though the weather looked grim, the team hurried up and got themselves ready. They were ready and waiting, so when the weather window presented itself, they jumped on it.

Heading up moderately steep snow slopes above the 14,200' camp, they arrived at a icy ledge at about 15,600', bordered on its uphill side by an ice cliff with a sort of curved top edge. This spot is called the "Eyebrow" for it's curved nature. It took the crew about 1.5 hours to make the hike to the Eyebrow, and they rested and prepared themselves for the steepest part of the route, which lay just above- the Headwall. There are two sets of fixed lines running up this 600' ice face. The right hand ropes are for the uphill and the left hand set for descending. I know this can be confusing for our friends from the UK, but hey- when in Rome...!

The climbers affixed mechanical ascenders or "rope clamps" in lay terms to the uphill fixed line. These ascenders will grip the rope in the event of a fall, but will slide in the direction of travel, allowing each climber to effectively have their own belay (fall prevention) system. They are still roped up, so even if one ascender were to slip, the other climbers would be able to arrest a potential fall.

The Headwall is about 45 degrees at its start and lessens somewhat as you climb up. It is fairly slow going, and the long stretch of employing flat-footed crampon technique makes for some tired ankles by the time you arrive at the top of the lines.

The lines top out on the stunningly beautiful and very engaging ridge of the West Buttress proper, which leads up from 16,200' to high Camp at 17,200'. The climbing along this section is some of my favorite on the route.

I have not heard from the team today, but reports from the mountain make me suspect they are sitting tight at 14,200'. I'll post more when I have new information.

Cheers!

Acclimatizing in the wind at 14,200 ft.

2010-05-12T08:46:00.000-07:00

The team checked in Tuesday evening to report a very windy day at Camp III. The weather station at camp indicated winds to be pretty constant at 30 mph with gusts well above 40 mph. Their camp is well fortified with snow walls and everyone is doing well. This is a great place to wait out storms, as most bodies will continue acclimatizing quite well at this camp. Perhaps with a slight break in the weather, this crew can get their cache in on the ridge above 16,200 ft. For now it is a game of wait and see.

Until next time...happy trails.

Message from Pete Ellis - May 10, 2010

2010-05-10T22:57:00.000-07:00

Pete Ellis commandeered the satellite phone and left the following message:

Carry around Windy Corner.

2010-05-09T08:13:00.000-07:00

Durny checked in to report the team carried a load of food, fuel, and gear around Windy Corner to about 13,500 ft. on Sat. Everyone did very well and enjoyed a huge meal back at Camp 2. The view from the corner is breath taking. It offers a great retrospective of the first part of the trip.

The plan, weather permitting, is to try move to the 14,200 ft camp on Sun. We'll keep you posted regarding the team's progress.

Happy Trails!

Carry around Windy Corner today.

2010-05-08T08:29:00.001-07:00

The team checked in last night. They reported a mellow day on the back carry down to around 10,000 ft to pick up their cache from a couple days ago. Everyone did very well. Friday night dinner was capped with Oreos and frosting to celebrate Durny's birthday.

Saturday the team will make a carry around Windy Corner to about 13,500 ft. It is a big day. The crew will begin with a climb up Motorcycle Hill then up another couple steps collectively called Squirrel Hill topping out on a large flat plateau called the Polo Field. After the Polo Field another short steep section tops out at Windy Corner. The team will make their way around the corner to a nice cache spot.

Until next time...happy trails!

Message from Jason at 11,200 feet

2010-05-08T08:03:00.001-07:00

A new home at 11,200 feet.

2010-05-07T08:08:00.000-07:00

We'll start this blog by wishing lead guide, Rob Durnell (Durny), a happy birthday. I think Durny mentioned this to be his 15th trip or so with MT, B-day at Camp 2 is becoming a regular thing for him. Hope it's a good one!

The team had a relatively warm day for their move to Camp 2. Everybody did very well, enjoyed a huge dinner, and settled in for a good night's rest. Travel conditions were quite favorable for the move.

Friday will be a pretty casual day. The crew will likely sleep in then enjoy a great breakfast at their new home. Later in the morning they will go back down to pick up their cache from a couple days ago. Upon arrival back at camp they will be "established" at Camp 2 with all their food and fuel.

Today's trivia question: The mountain is frequently called either Denali or Mount McKinley. Give me the origin and cultural significance of each.

Until next time...raise a PBR for Durny!

Podcast from Trudi on May 7

2010-05-07T07:47:00.001-07:00

Trudi called in to leave a message, and I sure hope her mother can understand the words, as the satellite phone connection was not the best.

Enjoy!

Podcast from May 5, 2010

2010-05-07T07:46:00.000-07:00

Hi All,

We had a bit of mix-up with the team calling in to a different phone to leave their podcasts, so my apologies for the delay on posting this. Here is a message we received from lead guide Rob Durnell (Durny) on Wednesday:

Carry to 10,500 ft. near Kahiltna Pass.

2010-05-06T09:14:00.001-07:00

The team checked in tonight to report a successful carry and cache trip to about 10,500 feet. Travel on the Kahiltna Glacier has been superb, the best this guide team has ever seen. Apparently the weather was a bit snowy with some wind and cool temps on Wed.

Thur. will be another pretty strenuous day beginning with a long climb up Ski Hill then a series of steep sections with intermittent flats. The weather near Kahiltna Pass can be a real mixed bag. The pass is the low point along the divide in the Alaska Range. Any weather systems in the area force their way through at this point.

The plan for Thur. is to move camp to the 11,200 ft basin directly beneath the West Buttress.
Everyone is doing very well and wish to say hello to friends and loved ones back home. Stay tuned for an incoming Pod Cast from this crew in the near future.

Until next time...make it a great day!

To Kahiltna Basecamp & beyond!

2010-05-05T08:49:00.000-07:00

The team had a great day for their flight onto the glacier Monday. Bluebird conditions likely made for a truly remarkable flight through the AK Range on into Basecamp. Temps at BC have been quite nice, around 15 degrees F during the day.

Upon arrival at Kahiltna BC, the team likely spent the evening reviewing camp set-up systems and any last minute rigging considerations for glacier travel. It is customary for the crew to enjoy a huge meal this evening in preparation for a long & difficult day moving out to Camp 1 at 7800 ft. The team will single carry, everything they need for the next 20 days, out to the base of Ski Hill at Camp 1. This is one of the more challenging days of the trip as the loads will never be heavier. It's good to get this day behind.

The team will likely make a carry today to around 10,500 ft. They will take a bunch of their food and extra gear for later and cache it in a snow hole. A couple days from now the team will return to the cache to retrieve the food and gear once they have established Camp 2 at 11,200 ft

In addition to shuttling gear up the mountain, these carry and cache days are an important part of the acclimatization schedule. It's kind of like a 2 for 1 deal, sign up for 1 WB trip and get to climb most of the mountain twice.

Until next time...enjoy the pictures.

Gear check complete!

2010-05-02T21:46:00.000-07:00

The May 2nd Team met today at the Earth B&B for their meet & greet / gear check. It is always a good start to the trip when everyone arrives on time with all their luggage. The group seems to be bonding well from the get go.

Following a short informational meeting this morning the gear check begins. This seems to be a somewhat anxious time for most of our guests. Wondering if anything has been overlooked or possibly forgotten? This group is dialed!

Next it is on to packing lunches. Each member of the team is responsible for choosing and packing their own lunches for the entire trip. Under the watchful eye of the guide team, of course! Then off to lunch at the Beartooth.

Following lunch the group is off to shop for any last minute items. Then back to the B&B to wrap up the day with some technical systems discussion. By late afternoon the guests and guides part way for one last evening in civilization. Early Monday morning the team is off to Talkeetna for a Park Service briefing and final preparations for heading to the glacier via ski plane with Talkeetna Air Taxi.

I'll post again Monday when I know the team has made it to Kahiltna Basecamp. Until then, happy trails!

Welcome to our Denali Expedition

2010-05-02T18:57:00.000-07:00

Not far below the Arctic Circle a huge mountain dominates the skyline. Known by the Athabaskan natives as Denali, the truth in the translation of its name, "The Great One," is immediately apparent by anyone who has been fortunate enough to cast eyes on it. The tallest peak in north America, it rises 20,320 feet (6194m) into the thin air, at a latitude just below the Arctic Circle.

Denali has a greater vertical relief than Mount Everest and many climbers of both peaks will attest that Denali can be the more challenging of the two. Located so far north, it is subject to a thinner relative atmosphere, making it feel like a peak a thousand meters higher than it's true height. Tremendous storms are common and the temperatures climbers must contend with are bitterly cold. It is the challenge of a lifetime for many climbers and the experience of a lifetime for even more.

Mountain Trip is one of the few mountain guiding services authorized to guide climbers on Denali and we have been doing so since 1976. We are incredibly fortunate to share this beautiful peak and it's surrounding Alaska Range with climbers from around the world.

On May 2, 2010 a group of climbers from three continents are gathering in Anchorage, Alaska to meet three Mountain Trip guides in preparation for an attempt on Denali. Let's meet the team!

Guides:
Rob Durnell (Durny) from Girdwood, AK
Caitlin Hague from Girdwood, AK
Jason Buttrick from Anchorage, AK

Climbers:
Keith Mambretti currently living in Hong Kong
Trudi Siewald from the US
Peter Ellis from the UK
Mark Dixon from the UK
Stephanie Nelson from the UK
James Ellway from the UK
David Hogendorn from the UK
Neil Williams from the UK
Richard Parks from the UK

We will update this blog as often as possible so as to both provide you, the reader, with an accurate description of what the team is up to each day, and also to provide future readers with an account of what it is like to climb Denali. Please keep in mind that communication from the Alaska Range is not always easy and that weather could easily conspire to prevent us from hearing from the team.

Comments posted to our reports will occasionally be passed along to the climbers on the mountain, but we cannot always guarantee that messages will always be relayed. Please know that all of your kind thoughts and best wishes will be read and deeply appreciated by the climbers when they get back to "the real world," so we encourage you to post them frequently. If you should ever need to contact one of the climbers, please call or email our Colorado office.

Enjoy the posts!