Hanging out in the wind, but their cache is in!

The crew made a push up the fixed lines the other day, carrying their supplies and fuel up to about 16,200'. They didn't think they would get a chance, as the winds were fairly strong in the morning. As the day progressed, the clouds parted, the wind abated, and they got after it!

This is a fine example of the "Hurry Up And Wait" principle necessary to climb big mountains. Even though the weather looked grim, the team hurried up and got themselves ready. They were ready and waiting, so when the weather window presented itself, they jumped on it.

Heading up moderately steep snow slopes above the 14,200' camp, they arrived at a icy ledge at about 15,600', bordered on its uphill side by an ice cliff with a sort of curved top edge. This spot is called the "Eyebrow" for it's curved nature. It took the crew about 1.5 hours to make the hike to the Eyebrow, and they rested and prepared themselves for the steepest part of the route, which lay just above- the Headwall. There are two sets of fixed lines running up this 600' ice face. The right hand ropes are for the uphill and the left hand set for descending. I know this can be confusing for our friends from the UK, but hey- when in Rome...!

The climbers affixed mechanical ascenders or "rope clamps" in lay terms to the uphill fixed line. These ascenders will grip the rope in the event of a fall, but will slide in the direction of travel, allowing each climber to effectively have their own belay (fall prevention) system. They are still roped up, so even if one ascender were to slip, the other climbers would be able to arrest a potential fall.

The Headwall is about 45 degrees at its start and lessens somewhat as you climb up. It is fairly slow going, and the long stretch of employing flat-footed crampon technique makes for some tired ankles by the time you arrive at the top of the lines.

The lines top out on the stunningly beautiful and very engaging ridge of the West Buttress proper, which leads up from 16,200' to high Camp at 17,200'. The climbing along this section is some of my favorite on the route.

I have not heard from the team today, but reports from the mountain make me suspect they are sitting tight at 14,200'. I'll post more when I have new information.

Cheers!